One account of a pilgrim's visit to Tirupathi temple.

Temple Goparum(tower)
This photos was taken at the Sri Venkataswara Temple in Tirupati. Tirupati is in the state of Andhra Pradesh, just north of Tamil Nadu.

The journey from Chennai, about 300 km, took about 3 hours. A journey such as this, you would never encounter in US. We travelled in a vehicle called a Tata Sumo (the Indian SUV), which was large enough to carry my friend, his family and, the driver and I (8 people). We had hired the driver, which is very common in India, and in terms of dollars is very inexpensive. Along this drive, every so often we would stop, sometimes due to traffic or bad roads, other times to give 'tolls.' Really giving tolls in India is not like in US at all. There are no toll collecters in booths, but general people standing on the street collecting these tolls, which are really more like bribes paid to cross state borders or city borders. One toll collecter was especially exotic and an interesting sight. This toll collecter was standing in the center of the road dresses as Hanuman, the monkey god. He was standing there on one leg, with an elaborate headdress, and a gold collection plate in one hand.
The Sri Venkataswara temple is the richest temple in India. It is said that people drop bags of diamonds at the feet of Sri Venkataswara. Typically in India, temples are at the tops of hills, as is the case with this one. We had driven to the top, but many pilgrims will climb the hill, which is no easy or short task. Upon driving to the entrance to the hill, there is a toll collector and a sign which reads "No non-vegetarian food is to enter these premises. Anyone caught with such foods will be fined!"

Being the richest temple, it is also one of the most popular temples to visit. It is nothing like visiting a church, and nothing like visiting anything in US. There are two lines to enter the temple. One is a free line, you stand without paying. The other is the paying line, pay about 50 rupees and stand in line for less time. The money collecters ease you by estimating the time you will wait to be about a half an hour!! (A very gross underestimation!) First you wait in a line, which is constructed like a line you would wait in to go on to an amusement ride, and from there, you wait in cages (not an underesimation). There is a room with three cages, you sit and wait there for quite some time (for us, about 3 hours!). While in there you can buy some idli (rice pancakes), vada (spicy donuts), chai, coffee, frooti (mango drink), and other various foods and drinks. The thing about buying the food is, it seems very unheigenic. They serve the vada out of buckets!! You can preview the list and prices of items on a tv monitor above your head and to the front of the cages. This tv also will play some devotional programs. And, in the crowd, you may hear every so often, people chanting a prayer. One famous prayer that comes from this temple is the Suprabhatam, the morning prayer to Lord Sri Venkataswara. They may play this prayer on the loudspeaker if you come very early in the morning.


Statues carved on the side of the temple.

Just a small fraction of the cue, near the entrance.
After waiting in the cage, it is time to wait in another line! This line is the line which actually leads into the temple, a 1.5 km long line! It is constructed in such a way, it leads around bulidings, over buildings, across buildings, on the side of buildings, and finally into the temple. Once inside, I felt a bit of peace for one second, I thought I would see the idol, maybe have a second to pray. Not a chance! You have no control over yourself, where you go, how fast you move, or anything. The crowd controls you. Had I seen more than the gold to the Lord's idol, I may have seen the pure diamond crown, or even his face. I had seen nothing but the shimmer of the gold he was formed from. And for six hours of waiting. I was a bit disappointed, but it happens with everyone there, that day, so I was not alone.

After seeing the idol, you take prasadam (food), curd rice (rice and buttermilk), and then proceed out of the temple premises. After exiting, you take your entry tickets and present them to the guy giving out sweets. The sweets, ladoos, are the common sweet of this temple. They are balls of ghee (butter), sugar, milk and flour. (As I remember:) They are very good, and very rich!
After sweets, it is time to leave. Near the temple, you can find many trinkets, prayer necklaces and other religious items for sale in the large bazaar. Here, even are guest houses (hotels) and restraunts.

This trip to Tirupati was very memorable and very worthwhile!

Om Sri Venkatesaya Namah Om Sri Venkatesaya Namah Om Sri Venkatesaya Namah Om Sri Venkatesaya Namah
December 22 December 23

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Page created in July 1998, updated September 2001.
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